Monday, May 29, 2006

San Pedro Sula

We are now in San Pedro Sula, a sprawling Belize City-like place filled with people. They have a McDonald´s here and it was our first stop after getting situated at the hotel San Jose.

Stacy and I were really, really looking forward to Micky D´s. It was sad.

But goooood....

After McDonald´s we saw a woman begging, holding a child who was clearing dying of either starvation or a degenerative disease. In any case, dying. Sarah gave her some food. The people here are really friendly. A man at the hotel with some medical knowledge looked at me and spoke English with a thick, southern twang. He found the cheap clinic for me and a taxi took us there at a fair price.

I spent the rest of the day trying to find a doctor and finally got in, later in the afternoon at a cheap clinic. The examination was superficial and the doctor didn´t help so after blowing money on pills I didn´t need for a condition I didn´t have I went again today to a specialist, who seems both more comptent and confident about my condition, although precise diagnosis was still not possible. DO. NOT. WORRY. Leave that to me! I should be getting better soon.

Last night we went to a restaurant that was way out of our league and didn´t order but bought beer to be polite. The people wore ties and everything was 300 L or more. Never seen that yet, not even in Belize. Different place. We settled for Chinese but didn´t know it was family style and ended up with bales of food leftover. We saved it and fed a street dude later. We wanted to see a movie but Misione Impossible Tres looked idiotic and we were too tired to see Syriana. No Tom Cruise. No, not down here. Nope.

For now I´m in putz mode, trying like the dickens to stay out of the sun, relax and chill out. Sarah hung out with me at the doctor, Stacy got her hair cut and we might all go to the big anthropology museum later this afternoon...it has air conditioning, which I need, and hopefully some educational type stuff too. We´ve read good things about it in the guidebook.

Bus

On the bus from Santra Rosa De Copan to Gracias Lempira we had to have set some sort of record. Vendors came on the bus selling fruit, pop, tortillers, chicken, wrist watches, socks, study books for children, snacks and more. It was nuts.

The busses go up and down the steep mountain grades (paved so far, so don´t worry!) and we smell the clean air with the windows down and the b.o. of the people next to us. We feel the rumble of the old disel engine and the hesitant grinding of the grears as the transmission struggles and strives.

The old school busses are packed sometimes five to a seat, with luggage stowed in metal racks just above. The other day I was crammed into a seat with a mother breastfeeding her infant and two other children. It was slightly uncomfortable for me but I just looked out the window at the scenery. We´ve also rode the bus with heavily armed soldiers, cops, farmers, preachers, you name it.

The "bus station" is usually a gravel parking lot filled with busses heading for who knows where. You walk up to them and people start shouting destinations. You find the person yelling your city and they shpherd you to the right bus. You get on and wait till it fills up. After the bus is completely paked and there isn´t room for a single person more, the ticket taker waits and yells for more people. Five or six more people get on and stand in the aisles. Once the vehicle gets rolling, the ticket taker comes back with a wad of bills and makes change and charges fees according to destination. There are never questions about when a bus arrives or how long it takes. It just sort of happens and you arrive whenever.

Saturday, May 27, 2006

Celenque National Park

We just got back from Celenque National Park after attemping to scale the largest mountain in Honduras. A man with a hat put us in the back of his truck and drove us up to the park entrance where we donned backpacks and put one foot in front of the other, passing old growth pine trees, waterfalls full of giant boulders and rushing rivers. It was much like the North Shore state parks. Think Baptism River, Tettegouche, Gooseberry Falls and the like...

At the visitor center we learned that two Canadaians who stayed at the same hotel we did in town and left the day before ran into some physical problems. The girl broke her ankle and her dude carried her off the mountain. We said, "thats too bad" and hoped to run into their backpacks so we could bring them back down.

On the mountain we found some rain, a bit of it. Well, a bit much of it. It got dark and the clouds crept up the pine needle covered 40 degree slopes like panthers on bicycles. Our burro´s oxygen tanks ran out and we tried to get him to breathe slowly through a paper bag but he got a little wiggy and didn´t go for it. We got about two thirds of the way up the mountain before turning back. By the time we got back to the bunkhouse visitor center we were wet as all get out, or get in...because thats what we needed to do...get inside that is.

We fed a starving dog and ate beans, rice and tortillers and coffee at a tiny comedor which was basically the tiny house of a kindly old woman who lives in the woods. We could see the ran pouring down through the cracks as we rested our dogs by a cement fire place, the only object in the place giving off light and heat aside from the steam from my soaked t-shirt and filthy trousers. The woman had deep lines in her face, eight kids and lots of cats and dogs. She told some of them to leave while we were there but a young mama kitty jumped in my lap. It seemed to say, "we´re both wet, dude. But you´re the one with a lap so...uh...I´m just gonna take it, meow kay?"

"Well," said I. "Meow kay then." Then the woman looked at me the way people look at loco people and handed over the beans and tortillers forthwith. We did eat them beans and eggs and rice and coffee, and it was todo bien. I liked the coffee.

We came down off the mountain today and I decided to write a meaningful song about it called "Piney Mountain High". Its all about perseverence, hope, and finding God and ultimate truth. The real catch is that the song talks about "getting high" but the real high is the mountain, and life. Nobody has ever explored this concept so I feel it is of the uptmost priority to share it with the world. I only write about what I know. Thats because I´m a professional.

Right now we´re back in Thanks Lempira! Its a town that thanks a guy for fometing a rebellion that changed everything and got money named after him and a town and a statue with peeling paint. Usually people who foment anything don´t get the statues until after they´re dead. Thats just how it works, I guess. If you want to foment something, especially revolution, wait until after you´re dead if you want any thanks for it or a town named after you, or just don´t foment at all.

Some sort of parasite went to town on my arm and Sarah put a benadryl in my mouth so maybe the bumps will disappear soon but I don´t know and I´m starting to feel rather a bit dizzy in the head.

Today is laundry day for me, so I have to go around town dressed only in my swimming trousers while people run away and say, "crazy gringo!" Modesty is the policy here and modesty usually requires at least a tank top. Laundry days are tough. I shouldn´t really go anywhere like this, with my parasite eaten arm exposed to the world. Soon perhaps they´ll think I´m a leper and take me away to a colony where I´ll be treated by a kindly medical student who will become so enranged at my condition that he´ll foment a revolution with Fidel Castro to create a communist utopia but it won´t really be a utopia because the government will never evolve beyond the revolutionary dictatorship stage outlined by Karl Marx in Das Kapital and the Communist Manifesto. Oh...wait a second. I already saw that movie. Motorcycle Diaries.

Well, I at least bought some fat cigars that were one lempira each. Thats about six cents... Each. Yowza! They were in a big pile at the market here. They smelled good but who knows. We´ll see what happens when people start smoking them. I´ll hand them out and write down the reactions. Never been much of a stogie man myself, but we´ll see. Gotta try it once at least.

Friday, May 19, 2006

I´m a dumpster freak.


I´m a dumpster freak.
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
This little feller loves to get lost in the garbage, then cries like a baby to be let out again, then laughs maniacally, then repeats the whole act. This is at Macaw Mountain Park, where they grow their own shade grown coffee beans and brew ém up there and you can get fresh, real espresso for two yanke dollars and a tour guide will show you dozens of birds and let you hold some (not pictured above, he´s an ankle biter) and then you can swim in a fresh mountain spring.

making tortillers with Blanca


making tortillers with Blanca
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
The girls were more successful than I, but I´ll try again when we get home.

stress!


stress!
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
Know the feeling?

Berto


Berto
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
We dug, cleared, trenched and planted the garden in the background with Berto´s supervision. His house and land are up a mountain, via 4x4 road in western Honduras. He´s a good guy. Berto is a subsistence farmer who lives in a one room house with his family. He never leaves these mountains and farms using basic hand tools.

making tortillers with Blanca


making tortillers with Blanca
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
Blanca Rosa is our host this week and all round Super Mom. She feeds us a ton of food for every meal, including lunch. When I was extremely sick yesterday she took good care of me. Last night when a giant spider was in out room she threw the beds aside with arms made of steel and killed it, laughing all the while. She did our laundry and showed us how to make tortillers. We´ll miss her when we go.

Sunday, May 14, 2006

mothers day cards


mothers day cards
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
Sarah and Stacy work on Mother´s Day cards outside our room at Bruno´s in Rio Dulce, Guatemala.

Happy Mother´s Day to all the mom´s out there who we know and love. Felicidades de dia de los Madres! Nosotros sus amor!

kabobs!


kabobs!
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
We live for kabobs! At 15 lempira each (U.S. .70 cents) they´re the cheapest, best easts in town.

copan ruins


copan ruins
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.

copan ruinas rain


copan ruinas rain
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.

copan ruins skull


copan ruins skull
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
The Misfits and Glen Danzig would be jealous!

copan ruins: The Bat


copan ruins: The Bat
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
Freaky!

making tortillas


making tortillas
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
Rio Dulce, Guatemala

Saturday, May 13, 2006

Where Are We Now? Copan Ruinas, Honduras


Wednesday, May 10, 2006

Horses and Baby Burros At Ixpanpul Skyway

Application For Burro:

Name: Peter Burro

Desired Postion: Staff Burro, Team Company Tres, Con Burro

Qualifications: Muy cute and can kick and chew me cud

Education: School of Applied Burrology, 2 years

Languages spoken: burro, horse, cow (not fluent) and human

Degree awarded: Burro of Arts (BA)
Why do you feel qualified for this position: Um...I´m a burro and I´m a baby burro and the baby burro, he the good one. He (meaning me) have strong back to carry your things and you can pet me and feed me and water me and I´ll never let you down because I love the human peoples and care about them much.

What expertise could you offer Team Tres: Don´t know this question

What best typifies your philodophy of life: pua vida, party, party

How could you add to our quality team: don´t know this question. Next question please.

What experience do you have: Just burro? Don´t know this question. Please restate it for me ´cause I´m jest a burro.

Copan Ruinas Honduras, child labor

How old can this kid be...eight? Its a school day but he´s out on the street trying to make ends meet.

Copan Ruinas from the roof of Classico Copan Hotel

We´re in the land of tobacco and coffee, red flowery trees and child labor, Maya ruins, and cobblestone allyways

Copan Ruinas Honduras, just outside of town


Copan Ruinas Honduras
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
Just outside the town we saw this man riding this horese and a baby horse tagging along.

Old busses and laundry


Old busses and laundry
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
Old busses and laundry in the town of Copan Ruinas, Honduras.

finca pariso hotspring


finca pariso hotspring.JPG
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
The water coming over the waterfall was really hot and the pool below really cold.

Cody, middle aged gentleman and storyteller and good dude from New Orleans is pictured at the back of the frame. Reconstruction is slow after Katrina and he was given a FEMA trailor. Uh lets see here, FEMA trailor or Finca hotspring? He got the heck outta d-o-d-g-e.

I swam underneath the waterfall into a cave where the water went up to my neck and we also explored some bat caves and took pictures of the bats. The bus took us out here.

el castillo rio dulce


el castillo rio dulce
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
Pirates built this castle during the height of WWII when it was thought Il Duce would send an invasion force up the Dulce. Luckily, 12 cannons and a big logging chain was all it took to keep Duce out of Dulce, that and a helluva lot of rum rations from Admiral Grog.

hotel tijax


hotel tijax (3).JPG
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
Pretty on the outside, barn on the inside

Monday, May 08, 2006

Sarong...but so right...

What can be done with a sarong, you say...?

1. use it as a towl
2. flag down a ride
3. signal for help
4. wear it on your head like a turban
5. wear it on your head like a burka
6. use it as an arm sling for a broken arm
7. make a Willie Nelson headband out of some of it and wear the rest around your trunk
8. use it as a bag
9. fly it like a flag
10. make a washable diaper
11. plug a leak
12. dress a wound
13. dress to kill
14. twist it up and make it into a bullwhip to defend yourself
15. wear it as a scarf
16. clean up barf
17. hang a potted plant
18. put it on the ground to protect yer bum from fire ants
19. use it as a blanket or a sheet
20. use to it collect the empty hulls when schucking wheat
21. use it as a napkin when you eat
22. doorstop
23. draft eliminator
24. door cover
25. window cover
26. portable bathroom (use of bucket and circular frame also required)

Friday, May 05, 2006

Bob Esponga

...is the goodwill ambassador to Central America. Whenever I wear my yellow Spongebob shirt, people smile. Whenever I wear my camoflage bush hat, people turn away. I was aware that I should choose my clothing carefully before going on this trip.

Expel

We watched someone making homemade corn tortillas by a little comedor and we became hungry. Then, she turned to one side and expelled about two litres of snot from a single nostril.

According to the guidebook...

Sir Dr. Browntrout states,

"...it was on the Isle of Flores that Hernan Cortes left an ill horse in 1843. The horse had been ill for some time, and, as a way to make reparations for destroying several cultures and empires, he decided to leave one of his noble clydesdales in the caring hands of the natives. The horse recovered enough to claim any regional lands not already claimed by the Spanish Crown. The horse introduced a reformist agenda of reduced penalties for idolotry and smote less heathens per square mile than had hitherto been smote previously. It is said that Cortes introcuded the horse to the people with the following speech, ´Mr. won´t you please help my pony. He´s over there beside the tree. He coughed up snot won´t you help him. I think its his lung.´"

Thursday, May 04, 2006

According to the guidebook...

..."there is no pavement between northern Mexico and the southern tip of Anartica.¨

Fisherman on Lago Peten Itza


Fisherman on Lago Peten Itza
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
Larry here´s your fishing picture!

Lago Peten Itza Flores Guatemala

Ooooooh! Ahhhhhh!

Lago Peten Itza Flores Guatemala

We are currently staying in the yellow hotel to the right on the middle floor. Took this picture from a lancha, kind of a gondola-like boat with a canopy

Where Are We Now? Flores, Department of Peten, Guatemala


Wednesday, May 03, 2006

tourist


tourist
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
I only look like this 80% of the time... :)

garbage dog


garbage dog.JPG
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
San Ignacio

walking stick at monkey bay


walking stick at monkey bay.JPG
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
or maybe a praying mantis? I´m not religious so I don´t know.

Belize City homeless


Belize City homeless
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
This person is rare among the street people I saw: he has all his arms and legs and doesn´t look like he´s on the brink of starvation or totally incoherant.

Belize City is frightening and depressing, a slum full of neglected people. People eating rotting garbage, pissing in the street, competing with animals for food. A cab driver told us there were plenty of jobs and that the homeless are all just crackheads. Well, can a crackhead missing arms or legs or starving to death go to work even if he´s not a crackhead?

Tikal? Tikal? Tikal? Maybe? Please? Now or later? At 5:00?

"So...when are you guys going to Tikal?"

"Not sure. Maybe tomorrow."

"Oh, tomorrow?"

"Yeah."

"How about today? 5:00? Better monkeys then, less heat."

"Well, we´ll think about it. Not right now though. We just got here."

"You did?"

"Yeah man, you drove us."

"Oh, so do you maybe want to go to Tikal now?"

"I don´t think we´re going to Tikal."

"Oh, no Tikal. Not now?"

"No, never. We´re never ever going to Tikal."

"But why my friend. Tikal is Tikal. You know, ruins?"

"Yes but we´re not going."

"If you don´t go to Tikal, half your life will not be complete."

"But then half of it will still be complete."

We will not see Tikal on a train.
We will not see Tikal on a plane.
We will not see Tikal with a tour.
We will not see Tikal at a late hour.

Tuesday, May 02, 2006

Caracol (7).JPG


Caracol (7).JPG
Originally uploaded by teerlinck.
This glyph is located at Caracol, the largest ancient Maya city of Belize. The pyramid called Canna is still the tallest building in Belize.

Archaeologists say this glyph means, "hammocks, just do it, just buy one...now"

Flores

Hi peoples, we are now in Flores, Guatemala. According to the guidebook this place is the "Venice of the Midwest" do to its cobblestoned streets and friendly vibe. We will be here for a few days and then head to Rio Dulce and Livingston.

We just ate salad at a place called La Puertas and talked to a creepy bald man with a hairy mustache and sweat dripping from his chin. He kept telling us about Lago Peten Itza and his eyes kept bulging out. I think maybe he was an extra in a Russ Meyers film. Everyone asks all sorts of questions about who we are and where we are staying and going. We try to be shrewd and polite at the same time. Everything is cheap here and we finally get to start saving money after wasting so much in Belize City on trinkets and baubles, a.k.a. food.

We just spent several days holed up in the slums of Belize City. We fed homeless people. A cab driver said theres plenty of work and the homeless are all crackheads but isnt that just the kind of polyanna-ish bullshit the Republicans back home say about indigent folks? Well, maybe they{re right. For all I know, all those one armed and one legged starving mentally ill people we saw would just shape up and fly right and all get great jobs if they got off the crack. Right? Uh...dont think so...

Shout out to Shell: Hey dude, we went to the Wet Lizard twice but it was closed! Arrrg! I guess it only opens when cruise ships come. Still, I drank a Belikin and raised my glass in your honor...dozens and dozens of times!

Contest

Whoever answers this question correctly will win one Guatemalan quetzal.

Which of the following is the dumbest tourist slogan?

1. Un-Belize-able!/ I cant Belize it!
2. Minne snow da, land of ten thousand mosquitos
3. Jamaican me crazy!